Travelling to the Isles of Scilly

My itchy feet were more than happy to set foot once again on a new adventure as travel restrictions eased. Blowing the dust off my rucksack from months of ‘staying local’ and with new complications of face masks, hand sanitiser and coronavirus anxiety, our first trip beyond the garden would remain within the UK. But you’d be surprised at just how different our own country can be, roughly 30 miles from furthest rocky point of Cornwall lie the Isles of Scilly, an archipelago of 150 islands with a microclimate warmed by the Gulf Stream. Just far enough away to feel sufficiently exotic for a seasoned traveller suffering pandemic cabin fever.

Porthcressa Beach, St Mary's

 

Like the sea mist that hides their lethal waters from unwary sailors a sense of mystery surrounds these islands. Little worlds in miniature, leading different and independent lives, inspiring feelings of adventure in the visitors who reach their shores.

"Every island to a child is a treasure island" P.D. James

Compared to getting to the Isles of Scilly it is certainly quicker to reach many of the usual holiday hotspots in mainland Europe but that is part of their allure. Catching the first train from Paddington station to Penzance took 5 and half hours (not so hard as the train travels the incredibly picturesque route along Dawlish beach) giving us just enough time to make the afternoon ferry. Tickets for the night train sold out within minutes of being released but the day trip on GWR’s modern fleet was comfortable despite wearing a face mask and the views were a great way to pass the time. Before we knew it we were crossing the Tamar on Brunel’s famous suspension bridge and suddenly in Cornwall. Station names flashed by in a blur; Lostwithiel, Truro, Liskeard, and occasionally, as the train sped its way, the ruins of a tin mine with its distinctive chimney, a reminder we were now in Poldark country.

Location spotting whilst on route

Arriving at Penzance, passengers laden with surfboards, buckets and spades spilled out of the small entrance, dispersing into a chaotic melee of holiday traffic. It was only a short walk of a few minutes to the quay for the Scillonian ferry but part of the walk was along a fairly busy road; a risky combination of pedestrians and drivers wondering if they’ve found the right place, following a colourful small crowd towards the quayside. This wasn't your high-tech airport lounge and infinitely preferable for it. Seasoned islanders shared tales of brazening 6ft waves on the open deck whilst nervous travellers twisted their sea sickness bands in trepidation. Only the seagulls watched calmly, ready to snatch a sandwich from unwary hands.

Leaving Penzance abroad the Scillonian

The ferry itself was small, two internal spaces with reclining cushioned seats plus a basic café and wooden benches on two outer decks. Head for the right side of the outer deck for the best views of the Cornish coast as you head towards Scilly (and don’t forget sunscreen, you are quite exposed on a sunny day as I found out to my cost). With three long blasts of the ship’s horn the journey started, passing the landmarks of St Austell, Mousehole, the cliff top Minack theatre and finally the jagged spine of Land’s End. Soon the mainland disappeared, and the boat was alone surrounded only by deep blue sea.

Alone on the deep blue sea

It was another hour or so before a tiny hint of land appeared on the horizon but our journey was interspersed by cries of ‘dolphins!’ followed by everyone crowding dangerously to one side of the boat to watch a pod of silvery blue acrobats leap into the air. Then faintly, in the distance, a rocky outcrop haloed by sea spray, then another and finally a whole series of tiny islands appeared like we'd crossed into some sort of mythical land. In a way, we had, legend says these islands are the lost kingdom of Lyonesse, swallowed by the sea in a single night. The rocky outcrops were the Eastern Isles, the first part of Scilly you’ll see as you arrive on the Scillonian, their only inhabitants, sirens, sea birds and seals.

The first glimpse of land, the Eastern Isles

It took another good 45 minutes as the Scillonian moved between the Eastern Isles and the coast of St Mary’s towards the harbour. From the boat we could see some of the sites we would later walk to on St Mary's and idyllic empty sandy coves beckoned with their siren call. Everywhere, evidence of how the wind carves this landscape was in abundance, trees curled over into distinctive waves and granite tors loomed like sleeping ancient giants guarding the hills.

Pastel hued cottages in Hugh Town

Landing at the tiny quay of St Mary’s there was only a short wait for freight to be unloaded before we disembarked, walking along the cobbled stones and straight into Hugh Town, the ‘largest’ town on the whole of Scilly. I say town in the loosest sense of the word, in reality just a couple of streets with stone houses huddled inwardly away from the wind. Our accommodation was just a few steps from the quay, impressively situated on a high point overlooking the harbour, Tregarthen's Hotel. After a long day of travel the first stop after dumping bags in our light filled simple room was the bar. A local gin (Island Gin from Scilly Spirit, made about a 20 minute walk away), with a golden hued sea buckthorn tonic seemed the perfect restorative as we sat watching the remaining passengers and freight disburse into the evening. Just over 10 hours from leaving London my mainland stresses were blowing away in the salt laden breeze, we were on island time now.

G&T island style

Tips for Travelling to the Isles of Scilly

Traveling to the Isles of Scilly is easy by train and good value tickets including both the train and ferry can be booked via the GWR. The travel team are very helpful in co-ordinating train times with the ferry. Should you wish to upgrade to first class, just find a vacant seat in the first-class section of the train and ask the train manager to upgrade your ticket (£25 per person for the trip to Penzance).

If travelling by car to the ferry, you can book parking space in the long stay car park for an additional cost, and this includes transport (a local taxi) from the car park to the quay. BUT this is for one person only and no luggage, you’ll need to drop this off quayside before parking. Drop-off space at the quay side is very limited.

Dogs (and I assume other pets) can travel on the ferry on the outer decks only at an additional cost. Regular ferry going dogs all seemed to have a blanket, I guess it gets cold if you have to sit on the floor.

Ferry check-in is by booking reference so have this handy and be prepared to queue before you board (keep a waterproof with you as there is no cover should it rain).

Luggage on the ferry is limited although not strictly enforced. Large luggage will have to be checked in and dropped off (if staying on one of the smaller islands there is a coloured luggage tag system in place). Medium sized rucksacks seemed to be allowed on as hand luggage as is a second bag if you have a laptop.

Loading up the Scillonian in Penzance

Keep a waterproof handy for both queuing and for on board. If its sunny I’d strongly recommend sunscreen if on the outer deck (you have been warned!). If you are prone to sea sickness, take some tablets with you. The ferry is designed to pass through the shallow waters around Scilly and can therefore be a little prone to reacting to a swell in calm waters let alone bad weather. If travel sickness affects you either get out on deck and concentrate on the horizon or get a seat in the lowest part of the ship where there is less movement. Sick bags are freely available. You will hear lots of horror stories about stormy trips but just ignore them, the ferry gives you the best opportunity to see all sorts of wildlife as well as an amazing view of the Cornish coast. If you are worried about an impending spell of bad weather, keep an eye on Twitter for travel updates (if its expected to be rough the Scillonian captain will post a warning and you can change your ticket at no extra cost).