The coast of Almeria: Eating out in Rodalquilar
Our trek to the Cortijo del Fraile and around the scars of gold mining edging Rodalquilar was on perhaps the hottest day of our trip, edging upwards to about 28℃. Facing into the sun for most of the way and with limited shade we were somewhat cooked on our return but did perk up after a restorative swim in Eckhard's pool surrounded by flowering cacti. As the sun dropped our appetite returned, reminding us our hike had been fuelled only by almonds and cake. On our way back from the day's walk we had walked past an intriguing looking restaurant, Casa Azul, an attractively simple and modern looking place with some great art decking the walls and decided to walk back into Rodalquilar and try it for an evening meal.
It was a hot and sultry evening so we chose a seat on Casa Azul's small open terrace, perfect for watching the village come back to life after the very necessary siesta. We were welcomed immediately with friendly smiles and some vibrantly pink beetroot hummus to nibble on whilst we decided what to drink, opting to take the easy way out and agreeing to the recommended local white, fresh, icy cold and delicious.
The restaurant was staffed solely by women and we chatted happily, sharing travel experiences as well going over the options on the short menu chalked up on a board. We chose one of each of the two mains, tuna a la plancha with a medley of carrots and red cabbage and a spiced chicken dish rich with vegetables and ginger, sharing them between us. Both were good value at under €15 each.
It was a delight to eat something so fresh and healthy looking after a few days consuming a more traditional diet (although no complaints what we had eaten before at all). The chicken dish was the star, gently spiced and fragrant and refreshingly light on such a hot night.
Again taking the advice of our friendly hosts we chose to share a slice of rich chocolate tort, a sweetly simple ending to a really fabulous meal. Laughing and chatting with the chef and the two owners manning the front of house it felt more like an evening at a friends place and we promised to come back for lunch the following day, finishing the evening with a couple of glasses of local aniseed liqueur before stumbling back out into the heat of the night.
With a lunch date already booked, over breakfast the following day we decided to change our original plans, taking instead a slightly shorter walk to the Torre de los Lobos. What it lacked in distance it made up in ascent, a small detail that we may have missed. Fuelled by coffee and thoughts of a delicious lunch we set off early, retracing part of the route we took when first arriving at Rodalquilar, back past the restored norias before turning sharply right and up into a steep sided headland. It was warm and muggy, the sun we had become so accustomed too hidden by dark thundery clouds making the ascent up the rocky slope hard and sweaty. Walking ahead I saw the distinctive slither of a dark reptilian tail disappear under a pile of rocks, our first snake. It took me a little by surprise, although more so that this was the first we had seen, the Cabo de Gata is very definitely snake country. We left the creature in peace and headed on upwards, perhaps slightly more wary of were we put our feet.
At the top, the headland dropped away into a small valley and a tiny rocky cove, Cala del Bergatin became visible through the mounds of esparto grass. We could see the path zig zagging steeply downwards edged by small yellow flowers and it felt like a different world. Glad for the descent and a chance to catch our breath we walked on. Caught between two headlands under the thundery skies the sense of wildness was intoxicating and yet again we were entranced by the fierce beauty of this desolate place. Hitting the bottom of the valley, the path split into two and we followed the occasional reassuring way markers away from the cove upwards again, higher and higher until we reached a high flat area with views over the Rodalquilar valley.
A rough track across some rocks met an unmarked tarmac road, the way to the Torre de los Lobos at the highest point of the route. The perspectives were deceiving, the tower looked within a short scramble over some scrub but at at each corkscrew bend in the road appeared no nearer. The ascent to the top was relentless and in places so steep we walked with a stoop just to keep upright. Despite our screaming lungs we forced ourselves upwards (lunch was calling) and we must have looked an odd sight as we trudged onwards, sweating profusely in the heat. My blonde hair seemed to attract a swarm of tiny black beetles and at one point I had to stop, the number of insect passengers caught under my hat no longer bearable. They flew off in an irritated cloud, presumably to to hitch a ride on the next sweaty visitor.
Finally we reached at the highest point, under the 18th century former watchtower, now lonely lighthouse, the coast of Almeria stretching out beneath our feet. The effort of the climb was well rewarded, the views spectacular and with a pounding heart rate, quite literally breath taking. We stood in awe looking back along were we had already walked in the days before and forwards to the twin peaks of El Fraile, the next stage of our journey. I wondered how many people had stood here, it was quite a climb and the tower can only be reached on foot (no cars are allowed on the road, which is solely for use of staff manning the lighthouse), it felt such an enormous privilege.
The downward journey was considerably less taxing although the descent was reversely hard on the ankles. We passed a single lonely hiker, his journey on his way up much slower than ours and raised a hand in greeting, he was too breathless to speak but our eyes met in silent acknowledgement. The road down took us through ancient terraces, crumbling slowly into the hillside. Here and there stood elderly olive trees, dark and biblical amongst the golden sun scorched grass.
Suddenly we spied company and crossing the road ahead us ambled a common chameleon, taking a risk in neon green before spotting us and adopting a more camouflaged bark colour and a faster pace. His golden eyes swivelled upwards to regard us cautiously as he took refuge in some thorny undergrowth. Sidetracked by watching this rather amazing animal, we realised we were at risk of being late for lunch and headed straight back to Casa Azul ready to take up the table we eaten at the night before. With the hot muggy air and sweaty climb we looked like a pair of dusty and thirsty travellers but were greeted with smiles, cerveza and more of the very lovely beetroot hummus.
This time we chose the excellent value three course menu del dia for €14 each. The starter was a single fresh oyster with a shallot vinaigrette which I chose without hesitation and they happily knocked up a house salad as an alternative for the less adventurous of us. For our main course we both chose the tuna a la plancha, this time with a purple Peruvian potato as a striking side. Seared quickly on the grill it was succulent and fresh, scented with garlic and fruity olive oil.
On our return back at El Jardin de los Sueños, I bumped into our fellow Inntravellers, following a day behind us and looking for somewhere to eat that evening. As we compared walking experiences I told them about Casa Azul and the two great meals we'd eaten there. The following morning over breakfast the six of them thanked us for the recommendation saying they'd had a fantastic and raucous evening in this great little place.
Casa Azul is a lovely restaurant that has combined a simple, fresh and inventive menu with an astoundingly friendly atmosphere, if you are in Rodalquilar, I heartedly recommend you visit.
It was a hot and sultry evening so we chose a seat on Casa Azul's small open terrace, perfect for watching the village come back to life after the very necessary siesta. We were welcomed immediately with friendly smiles and some vibrantly pink beetroot hummus to nibble on whilst we decided what to drink, opting to take the easy way out and agreeing to the recommended local white, fresh, icy cold and delicious.
The restaurant was staffed solely by women and we chatted happily, sharing travel experiences as well going over the options on the short menu chalked up on a board. We chose one of each of the two mains, tuna a la plancha with a medley of carrots and red cabbage and a spiced chicken dish rich with vegetables and ginger, sharing them between us. Both were good value at under €15 each.
It was a delight to eat something so fresh and healthy looking after a few days consuming a more traditional diet (although no complaints what we had eaten before at all). The chicken dish was the star, gently spiced and fragrant and refreshingly light on such a hot night.
Again taking the advice of our friendly hosts we chose to share a slice of rich chocolate tort, a sweetly simple ending to a really fabulous meal. Laughing and chatting with the chef and the two owners manning the front of house it felt more like an evening at a friends place and we promised to come back for lunch the following day, finishing the evening with a couple of glasses of local aniseed liqueur before stumbling back out into the heat of the night.
With a lunch date already booked, over breakfast the following day we decided to change our original plans, taking instead a slightly shorter walk to the Torre de los Lobos. What it lacked in distance it made up in ascent, a small detail that we may have missed. Fuelled by coffee and thoughts of a delicious lunch we set off early, retracing part of the route we took when first arriving at Rodalquilar, back past the restored norias before turning sharply right and up into a steep sided headland. It was warm and muggy, the sun we had become so accustomed too hidden by dark thundery clouds making the ascent up the rocky slope hard and sweaty. Walking ahead I saw the distinctive slither of a dark reptilian tail disappear under a pile of rocks, our first snake. It took me a little by surprise, although more so that this was the first we had seen, the Cabo de Gata is very definitely snake country. We left the creature in peace and headed on upwards, perhaps slightly more wary of were we put our feet.
At the top, the headland dropped away into a small valley and a tiny rocky cove, Cala del Bergatin became visible through the mounds of esparto grass. We could see the path zig zagging steeply downwards edged by small yellow flowers and it felt like a different world. Glad for the descent and a chance to catch our breath we walked on. Caught between two headlands under the thundery skies the sense of wildness was intoxicating and yet again we were entranced by the fierce beauty of this desolate place. Hitting the bottom of the valley, the path split into two and we followed the occasional reassuring way markers away from the cove upwards again, higher and higher until we reached a high flat area with views over the Rodalquilar valley.
Finally we reached at the highest point, under the 18th century former watchtower, now lonely lighthouse, the coast of Almeria stretching out beneath our feet. The effort of the climb was well rewarded, the views spectacular and with a pounding heart rate, quite literally breath taking. We stood in awe looking back along were we had already walked in the days before and forwards to the twin peaks of El Fraile, the next stage of our journey. I wondered how many people had stood here, it was quite a climb and the tower can only be reached on foot (no cars are allowed on the road, which is solely for use of staff manning the lighthouse), it felt such an enormous privilege.
The downward journey was considerably less taxing although the descent was reversely hard on the ankles. We passed a single lonely hiker, his journey on his way up much slower than ours and raised a hand in greeting, he was too breathless to speak but our eyes met in silent acknowledgement. The road down took us through ancient terraces, crumbling slowly into the hillside. Here and there stood elderly olive trees, dark and biblical amongst the golden sun scorched grass.
Suddenly we spied company and crossing the road ahead us ambled a common chameleon, taking a risk in neon green before spotting us and adopting a more camouflaged bark colour and a faster pace. His golden eyes swivelled upwards to regard us cautiously as he took refuge in some thorny undergrowth. Sidetracked by watching this rather amazing animal, we realised we were at risk of being late for lunch and headed straight back to Casa Azul ready to take up the table we eaten at the night before. With the hot muggy air and sweaty climb we looked like a pair of dusty and thirsty travellers but were greeted with smiles, cerveza and more of the very lovely beetroot hummus.
This time we chose the excellent value three course menu del dia for €14 each. The starter was a single fresh oyster with a shallot vinaigrette which I chose without hesitation and they happily knocked up a house salad as an alternative for the less adventurous of us. For our main course we both chose the tuna a la plancha, this time with a purple Peruvian potato as a striking side. Seared quickly on the grill it was succulent and fresh, scented with garlic and fruity olive oil.
A simple postre of macerated strawberries, Chantilly cream and nut brittle rounded off another fantastic meal. We lingered over a few more beers and coffee chatting about pets and politics and comparing photos of chameleons, walks and gardens with the lovely staff. It was sad to leave this place, an absolute delight.
Casa Azul is a lovely restaurant that has combined a simple, fresh and inventive menu with an astoundingly friendly atmosphere, if you are in Rodalquilar, I heartedly recommend you visit.
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