Sunday in the clouds

Sunday mornings are a good time for a little quiet reflection especially after a full day rich in culture. With a few hours before departing on the next stage of our adventure, we took an early bus (route A2, heading to Centro Asturiano, use your prepaid FEVE ticket) from the Campo de San Fransisco, heading out of Oviedo and up into the surrounding hills. Our plan was to visit the UNESCO recognised pre-Romanesque churches on Monte Naranco before climbing the to the peak to see the statue of Jesus Christ looking over the city (in a similar fashion to the statue in Rio de Janeiro).

Iglesia de Santa Maria del Naranco, Monte Naranco ©bighomebird

Alighting at the car park (stop Prerromanico, ask the bus driver to alert you) at the start of the walk some 20 minutes later, we followed the steep (but easy) track upwards, passing a small number of houses and a hórreo on the way. The first of the churches, Iglesia de Santa Maria del Naranco (originally part of a palace), stands perched on a grassy slope, striking in its simplicity. Further up, and sitting in a glade surrounded by trees, is the second, Iglesia de San Miguel de Lillo. Both of these ancient buildings seemed to glow in the low cloud, adding to their romantic spirituality. Its amazing to realise the age of these buildings, dating from the early 10th century. Although closed (there are guided tours, check the Tourist Office in advance), we could still squint through the keyhole of the solid wooden doors to take a tantalising peek of the interior.

Iglesia de San Miguel de Lillo, Monte Naranco ©bighomebird

Keen to see the statue at the top of Monte Naranco and with a train to catch later that day, we followed the road winding upwards through the mist. Cyclists and neon clad runners crossed our path on their way up and back down, the summit has been a finish on the Vuelta a España, so is a popular place for exercise. With the cloud level sinking even lower, Oviedo, then both churches disappeared from view and we entered a strange and silent world of damp greenness, finally deciding to abandon the climb and returning back the way we came before taking an obscure muddy path next to a stream back to the bus stop. Here, the sun was shining brightly but looking back both these mysterious spiritual buildings remained hidden amongst the clouds, keeping their ancient secrets to themselves.

Following on from my posts from my trip to Asturias, further posts are published on InnTravel's excellent The Slow Lane, inspirational tips and trips for taking life at a slower pace.

A Piper's Dream - following the bagpipe around the streets of Oviedo.
Welcome to Ribadesella - exploring this fantastic coastal town on the edge of the Picos de Europa.
Lunch at Arbidel - celebrating in style at chef Jaime Uz's Michelin starred restaurant.

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