Cornish adventures, exploring the 'forgotten corner' of the Rame Peninsula

As you know I'm very much a Norfolk girl at heart but everyone needs a little change now and again. I'd been wondering about Cornwall for quite a while (OK, I'll admit it, ever since Ross Poldark was caught scything in that scene). A wild and rugged coastline - tick, easy access to seafood - tick, but it's a long old drive in an old car. So, with a little persuasion and a well stocked cooler bag we escaped on a little adventure south west, leaving the worries of work behind.

Rather than trying to head as far west as possible and keen to explore somewhere a little less touristy, I decided on Cornwall's forgotten corner, the Rame Peninsula in the south east of Cornwall, finding self catering accommodation in a ramshackle cottage right slap bang on the beach, at the bottom of the cliffs of Whitsand Bay.

Beachcombers Cottage is certainly a very unique place to stay and it's quite a privilege to have spent time there, you cannot get any closer to the sea. Part of an eccentric community of wooden chalets clinging desperately to sides of a crumbling cliff we were warned that access was a little strenuous and to pack light. Parking the car at the cliff top, access is by foot only, following a narrow and very steep path down about half a mile before descending the approximate 160 steps down to the beach. The owner and his family live here too but access to our rooms was private with a terrace just outside the door. Every window faced the wide open expanse of Whitsand Bay and at high tide it felt like we were on a boat, quite simply breathtaking. Listening to the changing tides, seagulls and watching the clouds and seascape change by the minute was a fantastic experience. Twenty first century stresses and strains blew away in the salty air, each night we were lulled to sleep by crashing waves and by the end of the week we were sorry to leave. Travelling light was the best advice, it was an adventure getting here and we left fitter than we arrived but you cannot fail to be charmed by this special place.

Whitsand Bay is a beautiful part of Cornwall, so close to Plymouth yet it feels remarkably remote. A large Napoleonic fort (in use by the Army), the occasional surfer and endless wildflowers were our only neighbours but even here we could eat very well within easy walking distance. 

The Cliff Top Cafe is the sort of cafe you dream of running yourself. Small, local, cash only and serving up simple, homemade and very welcome cafe food after a day on the SW coast path or as an escape from the rain. The staff, nut brown from coastal living, were friendly and welcoming, serving up generous and tasty plates of 'all day' breakfasts or fantastic toasted bagels of bacon and Cornish Yarg cheese. They also had the best coffee for quite a few miles. Decorated with local art, quirky salt and pepper pots, postcards and local maps we slurped hot coffee and listened to fishermen's tales of the 'one that got away'.

For more formal dining and literally around the corner, The View, a tiny restaurant sits alone on top of the winding cliff top road and, as its name suggests, it has a beautiful panoramic view of the bay and the Rame peninsula. Escaping the wind during one stormy day we walked up here, in search of some proper restaurant quality food. The interior is bright and simple, walls adorned with interpretations of the wonderful scenery by local artists. Blink and we could have been in South Africa overlooking the Cape, such is the light that streams through the windows. Your attention, however, is quickly grabbed by the food, with starters of chicken liver brûlée and local crab risotto, served with lip-smackingly tasty and very fresh cockles, outstanding. Ingredients are all locally sourced and eager to take advantage of the availability of fresh fish we both opted for mains of grilled hake with an onion fritter and pickled cucumber and were surprised by the dish of additional vegetables that accompanied it, a generous gesture unheard of in posh London venues. This is a fabulous place, I imagine it gets pretty busy come high season, I would come back to this coastline again just to eat here. All the more remarkable that such a wonderfully high standard lunch using such good quality local produce came in at under £15 a head for the set menu, you'd be a fool to miss this.

We mostly spent our days walking the SW coast path, fantasising about the possibility of our next meal which would definitely be 'just around the next headland'. After one such walk, we found ourselves in Looe with bellies rumbling for some fish and chips. The Catch, right next to the tiny fish market, beckoned and we sat in silence scoffing battered ling from the local boats with a pile of perfectly crispy chips. The friendly staff offered a slice of lemon with the fish which was both a surprise and lovely touch, as was the availability of Cornish sea salt. I may have been pretty hungry but this was easily the best fish and chips I've had for a long time and they definitely deserve their award as best newcomer in the National Fish & Chip Awards.

So did I fall for Cornwall? You bet I did, although for me I'll stay a low season visitor. I wouldn't want to share those flower covered cliff top paths.