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Anchovies and Matisse, exploring Collioure

Arriving in Barcelona after the first flight from London, our only thought was coffee. Squeezing our rucksacks onto the metro, we adjusted our clothing to the rising heat of an early October morning in the Catalan city, a welcome difference to the damp darkness of London we’d left behind. The large station café beckoned, and soon we sat sipping perfect café solo’s with a Spanish breakfast of toast and tomato. Energised by the very necessary caffeine we turned our attention to getting a ticket for the slow train to France, a very cheap (€13.50) two and half hour journey to Cerbère, just over the border.  Clouds of blue flowers in the October sun The train emptied as we moved towards the edges of the city, at each stop more passengers got off and less got on, fellow travellers taking the cheap route, workers, students, young migrant families. The stations got smaller as it passed across fields and scrubland, heading towards the ever present ridge of mountains. Finally, we reached the la

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